Seventeen days from Java's volcanoes to Bali's rice fields and the slow Gilis: Mount Bromo before dawn, Kawah Ijen's sulphur, Mama's Pizza on Gili Air, Tirta Gangga water palace, the Gates of Heaven at Pura Lempuyang, a slow villa week in Penestanan and day-trips to Sidemen, Munduk, Tegalalang, Tanah Lot and Uluwatu. Our Indonesia guides are built around real travel — every stay, dive, and sunrise we'd actually do again.