Lac d'Annecy, Lac du Bourget & Chambéry: Alpine Lakes Guide
Beyond the high peaks, the French Alps hide turquoise lakes, a royal abbey, and some of France's finest cheese markets. Here's how to explore the Savoyard lowlands from Annecy to Chambéry.
There is a side to the French Alps that has nothing to do with cable cars or crampons. South of Chamonix, the mountains soften into rolling foothills and open onto two of Europe's most beautiful lakes — Lac d'Annecy and Lac du Bourget. The water is turquoise. The abbeys are medieval. And the cheese counters alone are worth the detour.
We spent the final days of a summer road trip through the Alps exploring this quieter corner of Savoie, trading glacial panoramas for lakeside sunsets and mountain village squares. It was the perfect counterbalance to a week of high-altitude hiking.
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Lac du Bourget: France's Largest Natural Lake
Lac du Bourget holds the distinction of being the largest natural lake entirely within France — a broad sheet of deep turquoise water framed by the limestone ridges of the Chartreuse and Bauges mountains. The lake has a wild, slightly mysterious quality that sets it apart from its more famous neighbour to the east.
We started our lakeside exploration with a drone flight above the water, and the aerial perspective revealed just how vast the lake is. Whether you're visiting for swimming, boat tours, or lakeside walks, there's plenty to explore. You can book a boat tour to see the abbey and coastline from the water, or simply find a quiet beach along the eastern shore.
Abbaye de Hautecombe: A Royal Resting Place
Perched on a wooded promontory jutting into the western shore of Lac du Bourget, the Abbaye de Hautecombe is one of the most atmospheric historical sites in the Alps. This 12th-century abbey served as the burial place for the members of the House of Savoy for centuries, and its interior is a stunning display of Gothic and neo-Gothic architecture.
Walking through the nave, the intricacy of the vaulted ceilings is immediately striking — every surface is carved, painted, or gilded. The choir stalls are dark and ornate, and a deep red carpet runs the length of the central aisle. Despite its grandeur, the abbey retains a contemplative stillness that makes you want to linger.
The abbey is even more impressive from above. A drone flight captured it sitting on its lakeside promontory like a stone ship, the turquoise water glowing around its foundations, late afternoon sun streaming through gaps in the clouds.
Evening by the Lake
As the day wound down, we found a lakeside restaurant with wooden terraces extending over the water — the kind of place where you can sit with a glass of Savoie wine and watch the light change. The reflections, the reeds, the quiet — it was a welcome contrast to the intensity of the high mountains.
Hiking Above Lac d'Annecy
Lac d'Annecy is often called the cleanest lake in Europe, and when you see it from altitude, you understand why the claim is believable — the water is an almost impossibly vivid turquoise that looks more Caribbean than Alpine. You can take a scenic boat tour across the water or explore the lakeside villages by car or bike.
We hiked above the lake on the slopes near La Tournette, reaching a viewpoint at around 1,650 metres that offered a sweeping panorama over the entire lake. The trail climbs through forest before opening onto exposed ridges with dramatic limestone cliffs dropping away to the water below.
The descent took us through dense forest with occasional glimpses of the lake through the trees. We passed a lone hiker walking steadily toward a massive peak — one of those scenes that captures the scale and solitude of mountain hiking perfectly.
Golden Hour Drone Flight
The real showstopper came in the evening, when a drone flight over Lac d'Annecy at golden hour produced some of the most stunning images of the entire Alps trip. The sun sat low, casting golden reflections across the water's surface, silhouetting the wooded peninsula of Duingt and the mountains beyond. The small towns along the shore looked like model villages scattered around a jewel.
Annecy's Old Town: Savoyard Charm at Its Best
The town of Annecy itself is as charming as its lake. The vieille ville (old town) is a compact maze of pastel-coloured buildings, canal-side arcades, and cobblestone streets that feel effortlessly photogenic without being overly touristy.
We spent an afternoon wandering through the pedestrianized centre, passing the pink facades of traditional cafés, the historic Horlogerie Molliex — a watchmaker's shop with its original painted signage still intact — and boutique hotels tucked into renovated alpine buildings. For a guided tour of Annecy's history, a walking tour is an excellent way to understand the town's Savoyard roots.
The atmosphere is relaxed and walkable, with the canal-fed Thiou river threading through the centre and offering constant glimpses of the mountains beyond the rooftops. For families, it's an easy town to explore — compact enough to cover on foot, with plenty of ice cream stops and shaded terraces.
Chambéry: The Savoyard Capital
Our final stop before heading home was Chambéry, the historic capital of the Duchy of Savoy. It's a city that often gets overlooked in favour of the Alps' more dramatic destinations, but it has a distinctive character and a handful of genuinely memorable sights.
The Elephant Fountain
The symbol of Chambéry is its Fontaine des Éléphants — a 19th-century monument featuring four life-sized bronze elephants supporting a tall column topped with a statue. Built in honour of the Comte de Boigne, who made his fortune in India, it's the kind of eccentric landmark that gives a city personality. The surrounding square is lively, with Haussmann-style buildings and café terraces.
Les Halles: A Cheese Lover's Paradise
No visit to Chambéry is complete without a stop at Les Halles, the covered market. The Laiterie des Marches counter alone — with its extraordinary selection of Savoyard cheeses — could keep a food lover occupied for an hour. Beaufort, Reblochon, Tomme de Savoie, Abondance — the range is staggering, and the vendors are happy to offer tastings.
The market is bright, modern, and well-organized, with sections dedicated to charcuterie, bread, wine, and local produce. It's the ideal place to stock up on picnic supplies or simply to appreciate the richness of the Savoyard food tradition.
Strolling the Historic Centre
The centre of Chambéry is a pleasant mix of medieval passages, Renaissance courtyards, and 18th-century façades. The Place du Théâtre, with its classical theatre building and surrounding cafés, makes a natural gathering point. We walked through it as a family, the children running ahead through the wide pedestrian squares, the Savoyard mountains visible at the end of every street.
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Practical Information
How to Get There
Lac du Bourget is about a two-hour drive south of Chamonix via the A41 and A43 motorways. Annecy is roughly one hour south of Chamonix. Chambéry is thirty minutes south of Annecy. All three are well connected by the French autoroute network and can be easily combined in a two to three-day loop. You can book a rental car to explore the lakes at your own pace.
By train, Chambéry is a TGV stop (three hours from Paris), and Annecy is reachable via regional trains from Chambéry in about forty minutes.
Best Time to Visit
Summer (June-September) is ideal for the lakes and hiking. The Abbaye de Hautecombe is open to visitors year-round, though a boat trip across the lake to reach it only runs in summer months. Annecy's markets and old town are pleasant in any season, but the lake swimming and outdoor dining are obviously summer draws.
Budget
Accommodation around Lac d'Annecy ranges from €70 for lakeside camping to €200+ for boutique hotels in the old town. The Abbaye de Hautecombe is free to visit. Les Halles in Chambéry is a market, not a restaurant — expect to spend €10-20 on cheese, charcuterie, and bread for a family picnic. Restaurant meals in Annecy and Chambéry average €15-25 per main course.
More to Explore in France and Beyond
If you enjoyed the alpine lakes and Savoyard culture, these destinations might be next on your list:
FAQ
Q: Is Lac d'Annecy really the cleanest lake in Europe? A: It's one of the cleanest, thanks to strict environmental regulations implemented since the 1960s. The water is safe for swimming, and its clarity is remarkable. Whether it holds the official title depends on how you measure it, but the turquoise colour speaks for itself.
Q: Can you swim in Lac du Bourget? A: Yes, there are several public beaches along the eastern shore. The water is slightly cooler than Lac d'Annecy but perfectly swimmable in summer.
Q: Is the Abbaye de Hautecombe free to visit? A: Yes, the abbey is free and open to the public. A donation is appreciated. You can reach it by car or, more memorably, by a short boat trip from Aix-les-Bains during summer months.
Q: How long do you need in Chambéry? A: Half a day is enough to see the Elephant Fountain, Les Halles market, and the historic centre. If you want to visit the Château des Ducs de Savoie as well, allow a full day.