Best Things to Do in Auvergne: Summer & Winter Guide

Tucked away in the heart of France, Auvergne is a land of sleeping volcanoes, emerald lakes and wide-open mountain pastures that most international travellers have never heard of. Whether you come in summer for the hiking or in winter for the skiing, this is one of those rare destinations that delivers something completely different with every season.

We have been visiting Auvergne regularly since 2020 — in the heat of August, in the snow of January, and everything in between — and it has become one of our favourite corners of France. Here's our take on the best things to do in Auvergne, covering both summer and winter.

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Hike to the Summit of Puy de Sancy

At 1,886 metres, Puy de Sancy is the highest peak in the Massif Central and the undisputed star of any trip to Auvergne. The ridge trail to the summit is one of the most dramatic hikes you can do in central France — jagged volcanic crags rising from alpine grasslands, with views that stretch endlessly in every direction.

We reached the summit on a clear August afternoon and spent nearly an hour walking the exposed ridge. The rock formations along the arête are spectacular, with dark volcanic strata jutting vertically from the green slopes. It is a manageable hike for families with children aged 7 and up, though the final section along the ridge is narrow and exposed — not ideal if you are uncomfortable with heights.

The easiest approach is from the Mont-Dore side, taking the cable car (Téléphérique du Sancy) partway up and then hiking the remaining 45 minutes to the summit. In summer, expect a steady stream of hikers — arrive before 10 am for a quieter experience. The round trip from the cable car station takes about two hours.

If you are looking for more outdoor experiences in Auvergne, Vulcania is a volcano-themed adventure park about 45 minutes north of Mont-Dore. It is particularly well suited for families with younger children and offers a fascinating introduction to the volcanic geology of the region.

Ski at Super Besse and the Sancy Massif

The same mountains that make Auvergne a summer hiking paradise become a proper ski destination from December through March. Super Besse and Mont-Dore are the two main resorts, sitting on opposite flanks of Puy de Sancy, and together they offer around 85 kilometres of marked runs.

Super Besse is the more family-friendly of the two, with wide intermediate runs and a relaxed atmosphere that feels nothing like the crowded Alpine mega-resorts. We have skied here in February and January, and there is something wonderfully unpretentious about the place — short lift queues, affordable passes, and the kind of snow-dusted volcanic landscape you simply will not find in the Alps.

From the upper runs, the views are extraordinary — the volcanic plateau stretches out below like a white tablecloth, with forested ridges fading into the mist. A day pass for Super Besse costs around €35 for adults and €28 for children (2024 prices), which is roughly half the cost of a comparable day in the Alps.

Explore the Gorges de la Dordogne

The Dordogne river carves a spectacular gorge through the western edge of Auvergne, and the viewpoints above the canyon are breathtaking. Near Champagnac, a short walk leads to a panoramic belvedere where the river snakes between densely forested hills — a landscape that feels almost prehistoric.

This is a quieter part of Auvergne that most visitors skip, but the scale of the gorge is genuinely impressive. If you are driving between the Cantal mountains and Bort-les-Orgues, the detour is well worth the extra twenty minutes.

Visit the Château de Val

Perched on a rocky promontory at the edge of a lake, Château de Val is one of the most photogenic castles in central France. Its grey stone towers and conical slate roofs look like something from a fairy tale, especially in the soft afternoon light.

The castle dates back to the 13th century and sits right on the shore of the Lac de Bort-les-Orgues. You can visit the interior and climb the towers for views over the lake. Admission is modest (around €6 for adults), and the whole visit takes about an hour. Combine it with a swim at one of the lake's small beaches for a perfect summer afternoon.

Drive Through the Volcanic Landscape of the Cantal Mountains

The Monts du Cantal form the largest volcanic structure in Europe, and driving through them is an experience in itself. The roads wind through vast green valleys where the only traffic is the occasional herd of Salers cattle — the iconic red-brown breed with lyre-shaped horns that has grazed these mountains for centuries.

The area around Puy Mary (1,787 m) and the Vallée du Falgoux is particularly striking. From the ridgeline, you get sweeping views over a patchwork of alpine pastures, dark forests, and tiny hamlets tucked into the valley floor. In August, the heather blooms purple on the hillsides, adding a splash of colour to the green volcanic slopes.

The drive from Puy Mary down to the Salers area takes about an hour and passes through some of the most untouched countryside in France. Stop at a farm along the way to taste the local Salers and Cantal cheeses — this is one of France's great cheese regions, and the flavour of mountain milk is something else entirely.

Swim in the Lakes of Auvergne

Auvergne is dotted with volcanic lakes and reservoirs, and in summer they are perfect for swimming. Lac de Bort-les-Orgues has several small sandy beaches where families gather in the evening, and watching the sunset over the water with children playing at the shore is one of those simple pleasures that stays with you.

Lac Chambon, closer to Mont-Dore, is another beautiful option — a smaller, more intimate lake surrounded by trees and hills that catches the low winter light beautifully. Even in late December, a walk around its shores is peaceful and restorative.

Walk the Vallée de Chaudefour in Winter

If you want a different kind of winter experience in Auvergne, skip the ski lifts for an afternoon and walk into the Réserve Naturelle de Chaudefour. This glacial valley on the eastern side of Puy de Sancy is dramatic in any season, but under fresh snow it becomes almost otherworldly — a monochrome landscape of frozen streams, bare trees and towering cliffs.

The walk from the car park into the heart of the valley is about 3 kilometres and relatively flat, making it suitable even for younger children in snow boots. Bring a flask of hot chocolate — you will want it.

Find the Best Place to Stay

Auvergne is a road trip destination — you will want a car, and you will want a base. The best area depends on what you are after. Mont-Dore and Super Besse are ideal if skiing or Puy de Sancy hiking is your priority. Bort-les-Orgues works well for the lake, the Gorges de la Dordogne and the Cantal mountains.

Use our interactive map to find accommodation near the spots mentioned in this article. Zoom in on the area that interests you most.

Most visitors rent a gîte (self-catering cottage) or a small hotel — this is rural France at its most authentic, and the accommodation reflects that. Budget around €70–€120 per night for a comfortable family-friendly option.

Practical Information

How to Get There

The nearest airport is Clermont-Ferrand Auvergne (CFE), which has seasonal connections to several European cities. Paris is about a 4-hour drive via the A75 motorway, which is one of the most scenic autoroutes in France and is toll-free for most of its length. Compare flights to Clermont-Ferrand on Trip.com to find the best fares.

A car is essential for exploring Auvergne — public transport between the villages and mountains is very limited. If you are flying in, hire a car at Clermont-Ferrand airport for the most flexibility. The roads are well-maintained, though mountain passes can be snow-covered between November and April — winter tyres or chains are recommended.

Best Time to Visit

Auvergne works genuinely well in both summer and winter. July and August bring warm days (20–28°C), long evenings, wildflowers in the mountains and perfect hiking conditions. The lakes are warm enough for swimming from mid-June through September.

December through March is ski season, with the best snow cover typically in January and February. Temperatures hover around -5°C to 5°C in the mountains, and the landscape transforms completely under snow.

Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) are quieter but can be hit-or-miss with weather. The autumn colours in October are stunning, particularly in the Cantal valleys.

Budget

Auvergne is remarkably affordable by French standards. Expect to pay around €15–€25 for a restaurant meal, €35 for a ski day pass, €6–€10 for castle and museum entry, and €70–€120 per night for accommodation. Petrol and toll-free motorways keep driving costs down compared to other French regions.

FAQ

Q: Is Auvergne suitable for families with young children? A: Absolutely. The lakes are safe for swimming, Super Besse is an excellent family ski resort, and many of the hikes are manageable for children aged 5 and up. The Vallée de Chaudefour walk is particularly easy and scenic.

Q: Do I need a car in Auvergne? A: Yes. Public transport between villages is minimal, and the best experiences — the mountain drives, the remote viewpoints, the small beaches — require your own wheels.

Q: Can I combine summer hiking and other activities in one trip? A: Definitely. A week is enough to hike Puy de Sancy, visit the Cantal mountains, explore the Gorges de la Dordogne, swim in the lakes and spend a day at Vulcania.

More to Explore

If Auvergne's volcanic landscapes and mountain adventures have whetted your appetite for more of France, these guides cover some of our other favourite corners of the country: